Wednesday, March 13, 2013

And This Time I Can Understand It All

During our time in Strasbourg we were given some guided tours. And even though I still stumble when I speak, my accent fades when I am tired, and my grammar isn't the best, my comprehension is SO MUCH better than it used to be. I mean, after spending a year in France hopefully everything is better than it used to be. But still. My oral comprehension seems to have improved slightly more than the others?

Our first tour was of the city of Strasbourg. Last time the weather was so ferociously windy that our tour guide didn't even try explore anything other than the interior of the cathedral. This time it was still cold, but I was resolved to get a tour no matter what!

Our guide was so pleasant, knowledgeable, and clearly passionate about his city.
Here is a picture of the only house in the area that survived the bombing by [not the Germans, but] the American's in WWII
By some miracle, the cathedral was relatively unharmed (apart from some of the round end in the back). The citizens took all the stained glass out of the cathedral and the windows were hidden for a number of years.

We visited St. Thomas' church, which I had never really heard of before. Apparently, Albert Schweitzer (an Alsacien!) used to play the organ here! I had heard of him, but only in terms of him being a humanitarian - not as a musician. Apparently he could tickle the ol' [organ] ivories with best of them. And when I say the best of them, I mean Mozart. Because he came by here and played at this church too (I mean, clearly they were here at different times but STILL pretty cool).

In the same church, we also were exposed to this piece of work:
 It is found where some sort of depiction of Jesus would usually be on display.

This is the tomb of Marshall Maurice of Saxony. This German-born lad served in the French military and later became Marshal general of France. King Louis 15th loved this guy A LOT. Because apparently he never lost a battle or something. Anyway, the only reason he is buried HERE and not in a WAY more famous place (like Louis had originally wanted) is because 1. He wasn't born French, and 2. He was Protestant!
He was apparently a pretty big deal. Also quite the lady's man - which is why, if you look closely behind that woman (who represents France, of course, with an ever-so-naturally falling blouse), you can see little-kid-cupid crying and being all torn up about his BFF dying. Hercules on the bottom left is pretty sad such a strong dude is dying too. And those animals in the back represent all France's enemies being defeated. 
 Legend has it that Mozart came through here right after this tomb had been installed. And some say that the final scene of his famous opera, Don Giovanni (in which the main character, a total womanizing asshat, descends/is pulled down into some mysterious place I am pretty sure is supposed to be hell) was inspired by this sculpture! You can totally see "death" inviting this dude into his tomb. He probably died from syphilis or something.

Speaking of syphilis, did you know that the German's (and probably other Europeans) used to refer to that as the "mal francaise". Yes, you heard right. Syphilis used to be called the "French Disease". Which is why what is now the CUTEST area of Strasbourg used to be something of a hell-hole. Its the neighborhood called "La Petite France" and was so called because the other citizens would not allow soldiers with syphilis to live near them. This means that THIS beautiful area:


used to be super disgusting and full of sewage and prostitutes and hospitals that specialized in STDs and scalp diseases (I am not making this up).
Now it is the most photographed area of Strasbourg.

And on that uplifting note (your situation can always improve!), I bid you all adieu for now!

A bientot!
Natalie

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

My favorite part: "speaking of syphilis." I love how you write!